For many people, especially to those who are new to it or perhaps who don’t weld every day, Stick (SMAW—shielded metal arc welding) is one of the more difficult processes to learn. Experienced welders who can pick up a stinger, pop an electrode in and lay down great welds time after time can inspire great awe in the rest of us. They make it look easy. 

The rest of us may struggle with it, though. And we don’t have to, not if we pay attention to five basic elements of our technique: Current setting, Length of arc, Angle of an electrode, Manipulation of electrode and Speed of travel—or CLAMS, for short. Properly addressing these five basic areas can improve your results.

Prepare

While Stick welding may be the most forgiving process on dirty or rusty metal, don’t use that as an excuse for not properly cleaning the material. Use a wire brush or grinder to remove dirt, grime or rust from the area to be welded. If you don’t, you’re hurting your chances to make a good weld the first time. Unclean conditions can lead to cracking, porosity, lack of fusion or inclusions. While you’re at it, make sure you have a clean spot for the work clamp. A good, solid electrical connection is important to maintain arc quality. Then position yourself so you have good view of the weld puddle. For the best view, keep your head off to the side and out of the smoke so you can be sure you’re welding in the joint and keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle. Make sure your stance will allow you to comfortably support and manipulate the electrode.

CLAMS

Bringing all the CLAMS points (Current setting, Length of arc, Angle of the electrode, Manipulation of the electrode, and Speed of travel) together may seem like a lot to think about while welding, but it becomes second nature with practice. Don’t get discouraged! There is a learning curve with Stick welding, which many believe got its name because when learning how to weld, everyone sticks the electrode to the workpiece. 

Current setting: The electrode you select will determine whether your machine should be set up in DC positive, DC negative or AC. Make sure you have it set correctly for your application. (Electrode positive provides about 10 percent more penetration at a given amperage than AC, while DC straight polarity, electrode negative, welds thinner metals better.)  The correct amperage setting primarily depends on the diameter and type of electrode you select. The electrode manufacturer usually indicates the electrodes operating ranges on the box or enclosed materials. Select your amperage based on the electrode  (a general rule of thumb is 1 amp for each .001 inch of electrode diameter, see FIG 1.) welding position (about 15-percent less heat for overhead work compared to a flat weld) and visual inspection of the finished weld. Adjust your welder by 5 to 10 amps at a time, until the ideal setting is reached.